How to Get Rid of Brassy Hair

TL;DR:

• Brass is what happens when cool toner fades and the warm pigment underneath shows through — it's a maintenance issue, not a colouring mistake
• Purple neutralises yellow brass (lighter blondes). Blue neutralises orange brass (darker blondes and brunettes going lighter)
• Using the wrong one is the most common toning mistake — purple on orange does almost nothing
• A salon toner resets brass properly and lasts far longer than at-home products
• Prevention is easier than correction — tone regularly and protect from sun and hard water

Brassy hair — those unwanted yellow, orange or golden tones that creep into blonde and lightened hair — is the most common complaint we hear from blonde clients across our Cape Town salons. Here's what causes it, how to fix it at home, and when to come in. For the full blonde routine, see our blonde hair care guide.

Meet the experts:
Royston and Warren at Cavendish Square — Judy, head trainer — Lewis, owner — Jackie at Gardens Centre — Debbie and Nikí at V&A Waterfront — Danny and Charlene at Canal Walk — Lynette, Samantha and Dominique at Constantia Village

01 — Why Hair Goes Brassy

When hair is lightened, warm pigments — yellow and orange — sit underneath the cool tone your colourist adds. Over time the cool toner fades and those warm pigments show through. That's brass. It's accelerated by sun exposure, hard water minerals, chlorine, salt water, washing with warm water, and the use of harsh sulphate shampoos. Brunettes going lighter see orange brass; blondes see yellow. Both are normal — both are manageable.

"Brass is not a mistake in the colour," says Lewis. "It's the natural progression of any cool or neutral tone when the toner fades. The colourist can't prevent it — they can only set it up to fade as slowly as possible. The client's routine at home determines how long the cool result actually lasts."

02 — Purple vs Blue: Choose the Right One

Purple and yellow are opposite on the colour wheel, so purple pigment neutralises yellow tones. Blue and orange are opposite, so blue neutralises orange. Lighter blondes typically go yellow — purple shampoo or mask is the right tool. Darker blondes and brunettes going lighter typically go orange — blue shampoo works better.

"This is the mistake we hear about constantly," says Warren at Cavendish. "Someone is using purple shampoo on strongly orange hair and wondering why it's not working. Purple on orange does very little. Look at the hair in daylight and assess honestly — is it yellow-gold, or is it warm amber and orange? That tells you which product to reach for."

03 — Using Toning Products at Home

Apply purple or blue shampoo to wet hair like a normal shampoo. Leave on two to five minutes depending on how brassy the hair is and how pale the blonde is. The longer the contact time, the more toning — but on very pale or porous blonde, even two minutes can produce a significant shift. Rinse and follow with a hydrating conditioner or mask — toning shampoos can be slightly drying. Use once or twice a week for maintenance, not every wash.

"Start conservatively and build," says Lynette at Constantia. "Leave it on for two minutes, assess the result, and go longer next time if needed. You can always increase the contact time. A temporary purple or blue tint from leaving it on too long is manageable — usually washes out within a wash or two — but it's annoying. Build slowly."

04 — For a Quick Fix Before an Event

A purple mask left on for five to ten minutes neutralises visible brass more intensely than a shampoo and gives an immediate result. For a dramatic correction — strongly orange or yellow hair that needs a clean reset — a salon toner is the fastest complete fix. It places the right corrective tone precisely and evenly in a way home products can't replicate.

05 — When to See a Colourist

Home toning manages mild to moderate brass. If your hair has turned strongly orange or yellow, has uneven patches, or looks significantly different from what you left the salon with, a professional toning or glossing service is the right solution. Our colourists tint, tone and gloss across all Cape Town salon locations and can advise on both in-salon treatment and your home routine for maintaining the result.

"Glossing and toning services are some of the most cost-effective appointments you can book," says Royston at Cavendish. "They're significantly cheaper than a full colour and can make hair look freshly done again. For blondes who want to stretch time between full colour appointments while keeping the tone perfect, a toner every six to eight weeks is often the right answer."

06 — How to Stop Brass Coming Back

Use purple or blue toning products consistently — once or twice a week, every week. Protect from Cape Town's strong UV. Rinse out chlorine and salt water immediately. Address hard water with a chelating shampoo used monthly. Wash in cool rather than warm water. Book regular salon toners to keep the cool base maintained. Prevention requires less product and less effort than correction.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get rid of brassy hair fast?

A purple or blue mask left on five to ten minutes gives the quickest at-home improvement. A salon toner is the fastest complete fix for significant brass.

Why does my hair keep going brassy?

Cool toner fades over time, revealing warm pigments underneath. This is accelerated by sun, hard water, chlorine, washing frequency, and the type of shampoo. Regular toning and prevention habits keep it at bay.

Purple or blue shampoo — which do I need?

Purple for yellow tones in lighter blonde. Blue for orange tones in darker blonde and brunette hair. Using the wrong one produces no toning effect.

Can I fix very orange hair at home?

Mild orange responds to blue toning products. Strong or uneven orange usually needs a professional colour correction service to be properly reset.

What are the best toning products for South African hair?

Kérastase Blond Absolu and Redken Color Extend Blondage are both excellent professional toning ranges with purple and blue options. Browse our blonde hair range for the full selection.

Browse our blonde hair range for purple and blue toning products, or find your nearest salon to book a toning or glossing appointment. Free delivery on orders over R390.