Reviewed by Chantal, Curly & Coily Hair Specialist, Partners Hair Cape Gate · September 2026
Curly hair is gorgeous when it's looked after and frustrating when it isn't, and the difference is almost never the products. It's routine and technique: how often you wash, how wet the hair is when the stylers go on, and whether you leave it alone while it dries. This is the routine our curl specialists teach across Cape Town, for every curl type from loose waves to tight coils.
Key takeaways
- Curly hair is structurally drier and more fragile than straight hair, so the whole routine is built around moisture and gentle handling.
- Stylers go on soaking-wet hair, scrunched upward. This one rule separates defined curls from frizz.
- Hands off while it dries, and never brush dry curls. These two habits cause most curly-hair frizz.
- Wash once or twice a week. More strips the oils curls can't afford to lose.
- A curl-specialist cut changes how curls fall more than any product does.
- Wash day is once; the other days are refresh days. Protect the pattern at night and one routine lasts three or four days.
Why is curly hair different?
The curlier the strand, the harder it is for scalp oil to travel down it, so curly hair is almost always on the dry side. The same bends that create the curl also lift the cuticle, which makes the hair more fragile and more prone to frizz. That's the whole reason for the routine below: curls thrive on moisture and patience, and suffer under harsh products and rough handling. It isn't high-maintenance; it's just different maintenance.
Do I need to know my curl type?
Roughly, yes. Curls run from loose waves (Type 2) through springy curls (Type 3) to tight coils (Type 4), and most heads carry more than one. You don't need the exact sub-letter; you need to know your weight. Looser waves want lighter products so they aren't flattened; tighter curls and coils want the richest moisture and the most definition. The routine is identical for every type. Only the weight of what you put on changes. Our best products for curly hair guide matches ranges to each type.
How should curly hair be washed?
With a sulphate-free shampoo, and not often. Once or twice a week is enough for most curl types; over-washing is the most common mistake we see and the fastest route to dry, frizzy hair. On non-wash days, a co-wash (conditioner only) refreshes without stripping. Once a month, clarify: Cape Town's hard water and a week of creams and gels build up on the strand and stop your leave-in doing its job.
Conditioner goes on generously, through the lengths, and stays in for two to three minutes. Detangle while it's in, with fingers or a wide-tooth comb, working from the ends up. That's the only time a comb should meet curly hair.
Why do stylers go on soaking-wet hair?
This is the step that changes everything. Leave-in, curl cream and gel go on the moment you step out of the shower, before a towel touches the hair. The water is part of the formula: it carries the product into the strand, seals moisture in and lets the curl form as it dries. Applied to towel-dried hair, the same products sit on the surface and turn into frizz. Scrunch upward as you apply, section by section on thicker hair.
How do I dry curly hair without frizz?
By leaving it alone. Squeeze out the excess water with a microfibre towel or a soft T-shirt, never a rub with a bath towel, then either air-dry or diffuse on low heat, cupping the curls up toward the scalp rather than blowing them apart. Don't touch the hair while it dries. When it's completely dry, scrunch out any gel cast with your hands for soft, defined curls. Most curly-hair frizz is created in the twenty minutes between applying product and the hair being dry, by hands that couldn't wait.
How often should I mask?
Once a week, in place of conditioner, for five to ten minutes. For 3B curls upward and every coily texture this is where the real moisture comes from. Skip it and the hair slowly loses its spring, no matter how good the daily products are.
What happens between wash days?
Wash day is once. The next three or four days are refresh days, and they're won or lost at night: a satin pillowcase or bonnet, curls gathered up loosely in a pineapple, and a mist of water plus a little leave-in in the morning. We cover it step by step in the overnight routine for curly hair.
Why does the cut matter so much?
A curl-specialist cut, shaped curl by curl or on dry hair, decides how your curls fall before any product is involved. It distributes the weight so the pattern springs rather than drags, and removes the sections pulling the shape down. If your curls land inconsistently, sit flat on top or bulk out at the ends, a specialist cut is almost always the missing piece. Our curl stylists offer consultations across our Cape Town salons.
'Most of the curly clients who sit in my chair have a drawer full of good products and one bad habit: they towel-dry before the cream goes on, or they can't stop touching the hair while it dries. I fix the habit first. Then we shape the cut around the pattern they actually have, and the products finally get to do their job.' — Chantal, Curly & Coily Hair Specialist, Partners Hair Cape Gate
Personal consultations with Chantal. If your curls have never quite behaved, book a one-on-one with Chantal at our Cape Gate salon. She specialises in curly and coily hair, from precision curl cutting to personalised treatment plans that keep textured hair hydrated and defined between visits.
Book a curl consultation · Shop the curly hair range
Frequently asked questions
How often should I wash curly hair?
Once or twice a week for most curl types. Curls dry out easily and frequent washing does more harm than good. Co-wash on non-shampoo days to refresh without stripping.
Why is my curly hair so frizzy?
Usually dryness plus disruption: not enough moisture, product applied to hair that's too dry, or touching the curls while they dry. Apply stylers to soaking-wet hair and leave the curls completely alone until dry.
What products do I need for curly hair?
A sulphate-free shampoo, a rich conditioner, a leave-in applied to wet hair, a curl cream or gel, and a weekly mask. Our best curly hair products guide matches ranges to each curl type.
Should I brush curly hair?
Only when it's wet and full of conditioner, with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Brushing dry curls breaks the pattern into frizz.
Can I diffuse curly hair?
Yes, on low heat and low speed, cupping the curls upward and holding still rather than moving the diffuser through the hair. Stop at about ninety percent dry and let the rest air-dry.
Where can I get a curl-specialist cut in Cape Town?
Partners Hair offers curl consultations and specialist curl cutting across our Cape Town salons. Find your nearest salon to book.
Continue with the best products for curly hair in South Africa, the overnight routine for curly hair and curly hair products in South Africa: the complete guide. Browse the full curly hair collection.
Advice from salon-trained curl specialists. Partners Hair — 24 salons across Cape Town, serving curly clients since 1984.
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