Reviewed by Debbie, Barber, Partners Men Cavendish Square · September 2026

Most men's grooming advice is written by skincare brands and reads like a shopping list. This one is written from the barber's chair. It's five minutes, it's the same every day, and the biggest gains come from two things that cost nothing: washing less and cutting more often.


Key takeaways

  • Don't shampoo every day. Two or three times a week; rinse and condition on the others.
  • Product goes into towel-dried hair for hold, dry hair for texture. Most men do it backwards.
  • Clay or paste for a matte, natural finish. Pomade only if you want shine and control.
  • A pea-sized amount, warmed in the palms, applied back to front. More product is never the fix.
  • The cut is the routine. A good shape every three to four weeks makes the daily five minutes almost automatic.

Why does my hair look worse the more I do to it?

Daily shampoo strips the scalp's oil, the scalp overproduces to compensate, and by mid-afternoon the hair is flat and greasy — so you wash again tomorrow. Breaking that loop is step one. Shampoo two or three times a week with a mild, sulphate-free formula; on the other mornings, rinse with warm water, use conditioner on the lengths if the hair is longer than a couple of centimetres, and towel-dry.

The five minutes

Minute one: rinse or wash, then towel-dry properly. Product doesn't hold in wet hair.

Minute two: rough-dry with your fingers, or a dryer on low if the hair is thick or long enough to need direction. Point the airflow the way you want the hair to sit.

Minute three: a pea-sized amount of product warmed between the palms until it's invisible. Work it in from the back of the head forward, roots to ends, so the front doesn't end up carrying all of it.

Minute four: shape with fingers, not a comb, unless you're going for a sharp part. Push it where it should go and stop.

Minute five: beard, if you have one — a drop of oil worked to the skin underneath, then brush. Done.

Which product, by hair type?

Fine or thin hair: a light matte paste or a sea-salt spray. Anything heavy shows the scalp.

Thick or coarse hair: a clay for hold without shine, into damp hair. If it won't stay, it needs a shorter cut on the sides, not more clay.

Wavy or curly hair: a cream or curl paste into damp hair, scrunch, leave alone. Dry product on curls makes frizz.

Classic slick or side part: a water-based pomade into damp hair, combed through. Washes out, unlike the oil-based ones.

Kevin Murphy Night.Rider Strong Hold Matte Texture Paste 100g
Kevin Murphy Night.Rider — a strong matte texture paste for short, controlled styles

If you're not sure which you have, the difference between gel, mousse, wax and paste is explained here.

What about the scalp?

Flakes, itch and a greasy crown are scalp problems, not hair problems, and no styling product fixes them. A gentle scalp shampoo twice a week, product kept off the scalp and on the lengths, and a monthly clarifying wash to clear build-up handle most of it. If it's persistent, ask — it's one of the most common things we see in the chair and it's usually simple.

The Cape Town part

Sun and sweat undo any routine. A cap on the beach isn't vanity, it's the only thing that stops the top going dry and brittle. After the gym or a run, rinse with water rather than reaching for shampoo again — sweat rinses out; the scalp oil you're stripping doesn't come back for a day.

The cut is the routine

Here's the part no product page tells you. A haircut with a good shape does the styling for you: hair that's cut to fall a certain way falls that way with a pea of product and a shake. Hair that's grown out fights you every morning and no amount of clay wins. Three to four weeks for short styles, five to six for longer ones. Keep the shape and the five minutes stays five.

Paul Mitchell Barber's Classic Styling Pomade 85ml
For classic slick styles, a water-based pomade gives control and shine without overloading the hair

'Every man who sits in my chair and says his hair won't behave has the same two problems. He's washing it every day and he's three weeks late for a cut. Fix those and I could send him home with a pea of clay and nothing else.' — Debbie, Barber, 18 years, Partners Men Cavendish Square

Debbie, Barber at Partners Men Cavendish Square
Debbie, Partners Men Cavendish Square

Personal consultations with Debbie. Hair that won't sit, a scalp that won't settle, or a beard that needs a shape? Book a one-on-one with Debbie at our Partners Men Cavendish Square salon.

Book a cut with Debbie · Find a Partners Men salon

Frequently asked questions

How often should men wash their hair?
Two to three times a week with shampoo. Rinse with water on the other days. Daily shampooing is the most common cause of flat, greasy hair by afternoon.

Should I put product in wet or dry hair?
Damp for hold and shape — clay, paste, pomade. Dry for texture and volume — sea-salt spray, dry texture powder. Never soaking wet; it won't grip.

Clay, paste, pomade or wax?
Clay: matte, strong, thick hair. Paste: matte, medium, most hair types. Pomade: shine and control, classic styles. Wax: shine and pliability, usually more than you need.

How often should I get a haircut?
Every three to four weeks for short styles, five to six for longer. The cut does more for how your hair looks daily than any product.

Does Partners Men do beards?
Yes — beard shaping, fades and hot-towel shaves at all Partners Men salons, alongside kids' cuts, threading and facials.


Advice from salon-trained professionals. Partners Hair — 24 salons across Cape Town, since 1984.

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