Purple Shampoo: How to Use It (and How Often)

TL;DR:

• Purple shampoo deposits violet pigment that neutralises yellow tones on blonde and silver hair — it's toning maintenance, not a one-time fix
• Leave on two to five minutes — this is the step most people skip
• Use once or twice a week, not every wash — daily use causes dullness and blue-grey build-up
• Blue shampoo is for orange tones on darker blondes and brunettes; purple is for yellow on lighter blondes and silver
• Always follow with conditioner — toning shampoos can be slightly drying

Purple shampoo is the easiest way to keep blonde cool and brass-free at home — but used wrong, it leaves hair dull or faintly violet. Here's exactly how to use it, how often, and what our Cape Town colourists recommend. For the full blonde routine, see our blonde hair care guide.

Meet the experts:
Royston and Warren at Cavendish Square — Judy, head trainer — Lewis, owner — Jackie at Gardens Centre — Debbie and Nikí at V&A Waterfront — Danny and Charlene at Canal Walk — Lynette, Samantha and Dominique at Constantia Village

01 — How Purple Shampoo Works

On the colour wheel, purple sits opposite yellow. Purple pigments cancel out yellow and brassy tones by depositing a small amount of violet colour with every wash. It's the same toning mechanism a colourist uses — just in a shampoo format. It doesn't lighten hair, doesn't change the base colour, and doesn't work on orange brass (blue products are needed for orange tones).

"Purple shampoo is maintenance, not correction," says Judy, head trainer. "It keeps blonde looking cool and clean between salon appointments. For significant brass or patchy tones, a professional salon toner gives a better result. Purple shampoo is for day-to-day upkeep."

02 — The Right Technique

Apply to wet hair and work into an even lather. Then — and this is the step most people skip — leave it on. Two to five minutes of contact time depending on how much brass you want to neutralise and how light your blonde is. The longer it sits, the more toning you get. Rinse thoroughly and follow with conditioner or a purple-infused mask.

"The sitting time is everything," says Royston at Cavendish. "Clients who rinse immediately after lathering get almost no toning benefit. Two minutes minimum. If you're dealing with visible brass, try five. If your hair is very pale, start with two and assess before going longer."

03 — How Often to Use It

Once or twice a week for most blondes. Use it when you notice brass returning and switch to a gentle hydrating shampoo on other wash days. Daily use accumulates too much violet pigment, making hair look dull, flat and ashy — and on very porous or pale blonde, a temporary purple or grey tint can develop that takes a few washes to clear.

"The consistency mistake goes in both directions," says Warren at Cavendish. "Not using it at all lets brass build up between appointments. Using it every wash leads to overly cool, dull hair that clients then blame on the product. Once or twice a week, on schedule, is the right frequency for most."

04 — Purple vs Blue: Which Do You Need?

A purple shampoo tones yellow tones in lighter blonde and silver hair. A blue shampoo tones orange tones in darker blondes and highlighted brunettes. If you're unsure which type of brass you have, look at your hair in natural daylight: yellow-gold tones — purple. Warm amber or copper tones — blue. Using the wrong type produces no toning benefit.

05 — Purple Shampoo vs Purple Mask vs Salon Toner

A purple shampoo tones lightly with every use. A purple mask tones while deeply conditioning — ideal for dry blonde and for more intensive toning in one step. A salon toner is a professional colour service that resets tone more dramatically, lasts longer, and works more evenly than any at-home product. Most blondes use shampoo and mask at home between salon toners.

"The mask is underused relative to the shampoo," says Jackie at Gardens Centre. "If you want more toning than the shampoo is giving you — or if your blonde is dry and you want to tone and treat at the same time — a purple mask applied for five to ten minutes gives significantly more bang than doubling up on the shampoo contact time."

06 — South Africa-Specific Considerations

Cape Town's hard water accelerates brassiness by depositing minerals on the hair shaft that interact with toner. A monthly chelating shampoo removes this buildup and makes toning products — including purple shampoo — significantly more effective. The UV here also shifts tones quickly, making regular at-home toning maintenance more important than in lower-UV climates.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do I leave purple shampoo on?

Two to five minutes. Start at two and build up — you can always leave it longer next time, but you can't easily undo over-toning. On very pale or platinum blonde, even two minutes makes a significant difference.

Will purple shampoo fix very brassy hair?

It helps with mild to moderate brass. Heavy brassiness — especially orange tones — usually needs a salon toner to properly reset.

Can purple shampoo damage my hair?

The pigment itself doesn't damage. Some formulas use slightly harsher detergents that can be drying. Always follow with conditioner and a mask to maintain moisture alongside toning.

Can I use purple shampoo on highlighted hair?

Yes — purple shampoo tones the lighter sections. It won't affect the natural base colour significantly. Very strong formulas can occasionally tone highlights more than the base — start with two minutes and assess.

What are the best purple shampoos available at Partners Hair?

Kérastase Blond Absolu (premium range with purple shampoo, mask, and full blonde care), Redken Color Extend Blondage, and Moroccanoil Blonde Perfecting Purple Shampoo are all excellent. Browse our blonde hair range for the full selection.

Browse our blonde hair range for purple shampoos and toning masks, or find your nearest salon for a full tone reset appointment. Free delivery on orders over R390.