Anti-Frizz Serums & Oils: How to Use Them and Which to Choose

TL;DR:

• Oils nourish and seal for shine. Serums sit on the surface for fast frizz smoothing. Both are useful — they do slightly different things
• Use far less than you think — 1 to 2 drops of oil, pea-sized serum
• Warm it between your palms before applying — prevents greasy spots
• Keep it off the roots — always mid-lengths to ends only
• Both are finishing steps, not replacements for your conditioning routine

The fastest way to smooth flyaways and add shine is a serum or finishing oil — if you use the right one, the right way. It's also the easiest step to get wrong. Here's what our stylists recommend and how to apply it without making your hair look greasy.

Meet the experts:
Royston and Warren at Cavendish Square — Judy, head trainer — Lewis, owner — Jackie at Gardens Centre — Debbie and Nikí at V&A Waterfront — Danny and Charlene at Canal Walk — Lynette, Samantha and Dominique at Constantia Village

01 — Serum vs Oil: What's the Difference?

Both smooth and add shine, but they work differently. Hair oils — like argan-based formulas or Kérastase Elixir Ultime — nourish and seal the cuticle for a glossy finish. Serums are usually silicone-based and sit on the surface, instantly smoothing flyaways and reducing frizz without adding heavy nourishment.

"Most of our stylists use both," says Charlene at Canal Walk. "An oil for nourishment and shine, a serum for fast surface frizz control. But if you're only going to use one, a good finishing oil is more versatile — it does both jobs reasonably well."

02 — How to Apply Without the Greasy Look

This is where most people go wrong. Don't apply from the bottle directly to the hair. Dispense into your palm, rub both hands together to warm and distribute the product, then press through the mid-lengths and ends. Never the roots.

"Warming it between your palms is the step everyone skips," says Nikí at the Waterfront. "When you apply it unevenly, it lands in concentrated spots and looks greasy. When you distribute it through your palms first, it spreads evenly and you use less to get the same result."

03 — How Much to Use

Fine hair: 1 drop of oil or a small pea-sized amount of serum. Medium hair: 1–2 drops / pea-sized serum. Thick or long hair: 2–3 drops maximum. Start with less than you think — you can add more, but you can't take it out without rewashing.

"Build gradually," says Royston at Cavendish. "Apply a drop, check the result, add another if needed. The goal is smooth and shiny — not flat and oily. Once you find the right amount for your hair, you'll use it consistently."

04 — Damp Hair vs Dry Hair Application

On damp hair before blow-drying: some oils and serums are formulated for this — they pre-smooth and protect during heat styling. Check the label. Not all products are heat-safe.

On dry hair after styling: the most common use. Apply as the final step to smooth flyaways, add shine and seal against humidity.

"For curly hair, apply serum or oil to soaking wet hair straight after washing," says Samantha at Constantia. "It defines and seals the curl rather than working against the texture. Wait until the hair is dry before applying a finishing oil."

05 — Choosing the Right One for Your Hair Type

Fine hair: lightweight dry-touch oil or very small amount of serum. Anything heavy will flatten it. Kérastase Elixir Ultime L'Huile Légère is formulated specifically for fine dry hair.

Thick or coarse hair: richer oil or cream-serum that can handle the density. Moroccanoil Treatment or Kérastase Elixir Ultime Original.

Colour-treated frizzy hair: colour-safe finishing spray or oil. Pureology Colour Fanatic is a 21-benefit spray that works well as a colour-safe leave-in and finishing product.

For humidity resistance: Kérastase Gloss Absolu range — formulated to seal the cuticle against humid air specifically.

06 — What These Products Won't Do

Serums and oils manage frizz on the surface. They won't fix dry hair from the inside, repair damage, or replace a conditioning routine. They are finishing steps, not treatments.

"If clients are relying on a serum to manage frizz and skipping conditioner or a weekly mask, the frizz will keep returning," says Lewis. "The serum is the last step — it works best when everything underneath is already in good shape. It can't compensate for a missing routine."

Frequently Asked Questions

Do anti-frizz serums actually work?

Yes — they smooth the cuticle surface and reduce frizz and flyaways visibly. They work best as the final step over a proper hydrating routine, not as a substitute for one.

Should I use serum on wet or dry hair?

Most finishing serums go on dry hair. Some are formulated for damp pre-blow-dry use. Check the label — not all are heat-safe.

What's better for frizz — serum or oil?

They do slightly different things. Oils nourish and add shine. Serums give faster surface smoothing. A finishing oil is the more versatile single choice. Using both gives the best result.

Can I use anti-frizz serum every day?

Yes — as long as you use a small amount and keep it off the roots. Daily use is fine and helps maintain smoothness between washes.

Why does my serum make my hair greasy?

Almost always too much product, or applying too close to the roots. Drop the amount, warm it between your palms, and focus on the ends only.

Shop anti-frizz serums and finishing oils at Partners Hair, or find your nearest salon. Free delivery on orders over R390.