TL;DR:

  • Minoxidil is the most clinically proven topical hair regrowth ingredient available without a prescription — FDA-approved for female pattern hair loss
  • Around 60 to 80% of women see some improvement with consistent use over 6 to 12 months
  • The 5% foam is now widely used by women and generally better tolerated than the 5% liquid solution
  • Initial increased shedding in the first 1 to 2 months is normal — don't stop using it
  • Stopping minoxidil means any regrowth gradually returns to how it was within 3 to 6 months — it's a long-term commitment

If you've been researching hair loss treatments, you've almost certainly come across minoxidil. It's been used for decades, has more clinical evidence behind it than almost any other hair loss product, and is available over the counter in South Africa. But there's also a lot of confusion about how it works, which strength women should use, and what to realistically expect.


A note on expertise: This article explains how minoxidil works and how to use it correctly. For advice on whether it's right for your specific hair loss type, speak to your GP, pharmacist, or a trichologist. Our stylists can advise on building a scalp care routine around it.


01 — What Minoxidil Is and How It Works

Minoxidil was originally developed as a blood pressure medication. Researchers noticed that patients taking it orally were growing unexpected hair — and a topical version was developed specifically for hair loss. It's now available as a solution or foam applied directly to the scalp and is the only topical hair loss treatment with FDA approval for female pattern hair loss.

Minoxidil is thought to work by widening blood vessels in the scalp (improving blood flow and nutrient delivery to follicles), prolonging the active growth phase of the hair cycle, and revitalising shrunken follicles so they produce thicker, longer strands. Importantly: it doesn't block DHT — the hormone linked to genetic hair loss. Minoxidil stimulates growth; it doesn't address the hormonal cause of androgenetic alopecia. This is why stopping minoxidil typically leads to shedding returning.


02 — Which Strength Should Women Use

The 2% solution was the original formulation approved for women. The 5% solution and foam, initially approved only for men, has been shown in research to be effective and often more effective for women too. The 5% foam is now widely used by women and is generally better tolerated than the 5% liquid solution, which contains propylene glycol that can cause scalp irritation in some people. If you're starting out, the 5% foam once daily is a common recommendation for women — speak to your doctor or pharmacist, especially if you have any underlying health conditions.


03 — How to Apply Minoxidil Correctly

Apply to a dry scalp, not wet hair — wet hair dilutes the product and reduces absorption. Part your hair to expose the scalp in areas of thinning and apply directly to the scalp, not the hair. Use the recommended amount (typically 1ml of solution or half a capful of foam). Massage gently into the scalp and leave to absorb — do not rinse out. Wash your hands immediately after. Apply consistently, once or twice daily as directed. Consistency is everything with minoxidil.

"The most common reason minoxidil doesn't seem to work is inconsistent application," says Royston at Cavendish. "It's a daily commitment, not something you use when you remember. Clients who build it into a fixed routine — same time every day — see significantly better results than those who use it sporadically."


04 — What to Expect Month by Month

Months 1 to 2: You may notice increased shedding. This is normal — minoxidil pushes resting hairs out to make way for new growth. Do not stop using it. Months 3 to 4: Shedding slows. Some women start to notice fine new hairs, particularly around the hairline. Months 6 to 12: Visible improvement in density and thickness for most women who respond to treatment. Around 60 to 80% of women see some improvement with consistent use. It works best for diffuse thinning and early-stage female pattern hair loss.


05 — Important Things to Know

Minoxidil is a long-term commitment. If you stop, regrowth will gradually shed within 3 to 6 months. It maintains results rather than permanently fixing the problem. Do not use it if you're pregnant or breastfeeding. Facial hair growth is a possible side effect, particularly with the liquid solution — the foam formulation has a lower risk. It works best as part of a complete routine alongside a scalp-supportive shampoo and good nutrition.

"The clients who get the most from minoxidil are the ones who treat it as one part of a wider routine," says Judy, head trainer. "Scalp-supportive shampoo, a healthy diet, adequate iron and protein — and then the minoxidil on top of that. It's not a replacement for the basics. It's the targeted active that works better when everything else is in order."


06 — Get a Scalp Assessment First

Minoxidil is most effective for androgenetic alopecia and telogen effluvium. It's less effective for other causes of hair loss. A scalp assessment helps confirm you're dealing with a type of hair loss that minoxidil addresses — and saves you from investing in a treatment that isn't matched to your specific situation.


Frequently Asked Questions

Does minoxidil work for women?

Yes — it's FDA-approved for female pattern hair loss and is the most clinically proven topical hair regrowth treatment available. Around 60 to 80% of women see improvement with consistent use.

How long does minoxidil take to work for women?

Most women start seeing results between 3 and 6 months of consistent daily use. Full results are typically assessed at 12 months.

Can I use 5% minoxidil as a woman?

Yes — the 5% foam is widely used by women and often more effective than the 2% solution. Speak to your doctor or pharmacist before starting, especially if you have any health conditions.

What happens if I stop using minoxidil?

Any regrowth achieved will gradually shed within 3 to 6 months of stopping. Minoxidil maintains results rather than permanently reversing hair loss.

Where can I buy minoxidil in South Africa?

Minoxidil is available over the counter at pharmacies across South Africa. For professional-grade scalp serums and hair loss products, Partners Hair stocks a curated range available online and in salon.


Book a scalp consultation at your nearest Partners Hair salon, or shop our hair growth range online. Free delivery on orders over R390.