TL;DR:

  • A curling iron has a clamp — it holds the hair while it wraps. A curling wand has no clamp — you wrap the hair around it manually
  • Irons are easier to use and more forgiving for beginners. Wands give more natural, varied results but require more technique
  • Iron curls tend to be more uniform and hold longer. Wand curls look more effortless and beachy
  • Barrel size determines curl size — small barrels for tight ringlets, large barrels for loose waves
  • Always use heat protectant. Both tools reach temperatures that cause damage without it

The curling iron vs curling wand question comes up at our salons constantly. Both create curls — but they work differently, suit different techniques, and produce noticeably different results. Here’s how to choose between them.


Meet the experts:
Royston and Warren at Cavendish Square — Judy, head trainer — Lewis, owner — Jackie at Gardens Centre — Debbie and Nikí at V&A Waterfront — Danny and Charlene at Canal Walk — Lynette, Samantha and Dominique at Constantia Village


01 — How They Differ: Clamp vs No Clamp

A curling iron has a spring clamp that holds the hair against the barrel while it heats. You section hair, clamp the end, and wrap upward. A curling wand has no clamp — you wrap the hair around the barrel manually and hold the end with a gloved finger or the wand’s stand. The clamp makes an iron easier to use and more consistent. The absence of a clamp on a wand requires more manual technique but creates more varied, natural-looking results.

“For clients who are new to curling, I always recommend starting with a clamp iron,” says Judy, head trainer. “The clamp holds the hair for you while you learn. Once the technique is established, some people prefer switching to a wand for a more natural result. But the iron is significantly more forgiving while you’re learning.”

02 — The Look: Uniform vs Natural

Curling iron curls are more uniform — consistent barrel contact creates consistent curls. This makes them ideal for polished, defined looks where uniformity is the goal. Curling wand results are naturally less uniform because you’re wrapping manually at slightly different tensions and angles each section. This variation is what creates the effortless, beachy wave look that’s harder to achieve with a clamp iron.

“If someone wants a defined, polished curl set — think old Hollywood waves or a formal event look — the iron gives more control,” says Debbie at the Waterfront. “If someone wants lived-in waves that look like they dried naturally that way, the wand gives better results. Same barrel size, same temperature, very different aesthetic.”

03 — Barrel Size and What It Creates

The barrel diameter determines the curl size regardless of whether it’s an iron or wand. Small barrels (9–19mm) create tight ringlets and defined curls. Medium barrels (25–32mm) create classic medium curls — the most versatile size. Large barrels (38mm+) create loose waves and big, bouncy curls. Tapered barrels (wider at the base, narrower at the tip) create a graduated wave that looks more natural at the ends.

“The 25–32mm barrel is what I recommend to most clients because it’s the most versatile,” says Royston at Cavendish. “You can create a defined curl, a loose wave, or a barely-there bend depending on how you use it. If you’re only buying one curling tool, that’s the size.”

04 — Hold Time and Longevity

Iron curls typically hold longer because the clamp creates consistent, even heat contact that sets the curl more thoroughly. Wand curls held for the same time at the same temperature often drop slightly faster — particularly on fine or silky hair. For fine hair needing long-lasting curls: iron at a moderate temperature, cool the curl in your palm for a few seconds before releasing, and finish with a light-hold spray.

“The technique of cooling the curl in your palm before releasing it makes a big difference to how long it holds,” says Warren at Cavendish. “Let the hair cool in the shape you want it. If you release it while it’s still warm, the curl relaxes. Hold it for a few seconds after the iron releases and it sets in that shape.”

05 — Technique Tips for Each

Curling iron: Section into medium-sized pieces. Hold the iron vertically (for spiral curls) or horizontally (for classic curls). Clamp near the root, wrap away from the face, hold 8–12 seconds depending on hair thickness. Release and cool in the palm. Work from the bottom sections upward.

Curling wand: Section hair. Wrap around the barrel from root downward, leaving the end free for a more natural finish. Hold 8–15 seconds. Release — the free end creates a more tousled, natural wave at the tip. Alternate the direction you wrap each section (toward and away from the face) for the most natural-looking result.

06 — Which to Choose

Choose a curling iron if you’re new to heat styling or want consistent, polished results you can rely on. Choose a curling wand if you have styling experience and want effortless, natural-looking waves that don’t look set. Both tools require heat protectant — both reach temperatures that cause damage without it. Partners Hair stocks curling irons and wands from Silver Bullet, BaByliss Pro and Veaudry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a curling iron or wand better for beginners?

Curling iron. The clamp holds the hair while you learn the technique. A wand requires more manual control and coordination — better suited once you’re comfortable with the basics.

Which creates more natural-looking curls?

A curling wand. The manual wrapping naturally creates variation in curl size and tension, which gives a more organic, beachy look. An iron produces more uniform curls — more polished but less effortlessly natural.

What barrel size is best for loose waves?

32–38mm. Larger barrels create softer bends and loose waves. For tight ringlets: 19mm or below. For all-round versatility: 25–32mm.

Does the curling direction matter?

Yes — for natural-looking results, alternate curling direction section by section: some toward the face, some away. Curling all sections in the same direction creates a more uniform set look. Alternating directions creates the varied, effortless wave result most clients want.

How do I make my curls last longer?

Cool the curl in your palm for a few seconds before releasing. Use a light hold spray after curling. Let the curls cool completely before touching or brushing. Don’t apply products to the hair while it’s still warm from the iron.

Where can I buy professional curling irons in South Africa?

At Partners Hair salons and online at partnershair.co.za. We stock Silver Bullet, BaByliss Pro, and Veaudry curling tools. Free delivery on orders over R390.


Browse professional curling tools at Partners Hair, or find your nearest salon for tool advice matched to your hair type. Free delivery on orders over R390.